Main » 2009 » June » 1 » On July, 1st - on August 15th, 2009, Sea, mountain, steppes or geography studying in scale 1:1th
On July, 1st - on August 15th, 2009, Sea, mountain, steppes or geography studying in scale 1:1th
Sergey (trouble)to planholidaysfor six weeks, and I(Tymanka)advanceto the chiefgavehis resignation.On theSuzuki Intruder1500LSwe plannedto travelthe following route: M4, Azov and BlackSea, Kalmykia, M6,on the waystoppinginall major cities,which have not yetvisited.Antonjoined us(the Hedgehog, who is alsothe Hedgehog)on800Honda Pacificwith Tatiana,andAndrewonYamaha XJR1200to Irina.
from St. Petersburg, July 1, 2009. The first night was in the village
Aparkino, Sandovskii district, Tver region, where our grandmother was waiting
for Sergei, with pies and soup. The next day they decided to go not too
early, so as not to stand in a Moscow traffic jams. However, in
Solnechnogorsk managed to get our bike Chevrolet Lacetti. She stood on the
wrong side of a left turn signals, missed the XJR, and in front of us, for no
apparent reason, decided to make the maneuver, for which he paid the right
door. Break off a piece from Suzuki windshield, turn signal wires hanging on,
bent wheel. The driver shuffled his foot, saying the house had already
turned, and a meeting with the motorcycle did not expect, and did not see us.
By the way we have to poltorashke xenon lamp, a completely invisible. Soon
ceased to be secret, the fact that a citizen under Shafei, but trouble has
agreed to close their eyes for a small fee of $ 10,000 reh. This was our
first accident with a car. Repairs made on site, as were able to straighten
the wheel and turn signal on tape fasten. Make up for lost time, Andrew
wanted to speed 160 km / h, and Anton chose 110 km / h, and sometimes less.
Agree it was problematic, so we let Andrei forward, and slowly slipped down
to the Hedgehog in Tula, where we were to wait for 2 am Lech (Black Legion
MC), to spend the night in Vadyuhe. "Black Legion" thank you very
much, as usually encountered, watered, fed, and was put to sleep. Andryukha,
almost drove to Voronezh, and there spent the night in a glamorous pink
hotel. The next day, while in the studio of Sergei straighten the wheel, I
took a tour of hedgehogs, the Tula Kremlin. Bought cakes, again hit the road,
on the advice Vadyuhi through on Anishino Venevsky district, where there is a
picturesque church, with the intriguing name of "the wise thief,"
and you can go in at any time of day. According to the Gospel of Jesus Christ
of the cross was erected between the crucifixions of criminals repented robber
earned the nickname "prudent" and, according to legend, was in
heaven. A "Who are you?" - Offers to reflect the inscription on the
second cross. We do not regret that they had made a detour of 80 km, lit
candles, which they can take for free, as well as calendars and brochures.
At Voronezh were waiting for us, sleep, Andrew Ira.
On dinner, we all together went to Voronezh, where we were greeted by a
familiar Glory Vulkan'e, and spent the bypass. All night we sailed from
Rostov road without stopping helm, without sleep or rest. We traveled this
time with Andrei, at each gas station waiting for the Hedgehog, and the
morning were in Chicago. With a location map, we're still hard to find
"dirt bike Post" - base mototurizma to the south (in any case, it
was stated on their website). But we thought that its name does not justify
it. For the night we were invited to the meadow in the territory - or a snack
or a cup of tea, we have not had a chance. These options are only available
after noon. Andrew hoped here to change tires on the rear wheel, and travel
was not, and the price offered sportovskogo cylinder proved to be very high.
However, Rostov "Night Wolves" prompted us to be more successful
route to the Sea of Azov and the place where they can relax. General
council decided not to stay for the night, and go farther in search of the
village "Golubitskaya." Tired body buzzed and left to languish in
the heat of the Krasnodar region, when we, from the height of a small hill,
finally saw the sea and the central beach. But we had even choose a place for
All the way Andrew was worried that he had to XJR'e
tires are almost bald, a crack appeared in the chain, and in general - he
will not go anywhere further. But it was his choice - to go to dalnoboy
sportovskoy rubber, with the expectation to buy spare parts in transit, and
the panic was premature, even before the cord is not yet realized. We're with
Sergey and Tanya Anton, went to choose a parking lot, and eventually decided
to withdraw from local residents two rooms of 250 p. per person. Also, the
service included: parking, outside shower, and dining room with TV,
refrigerator, gas stove and sink. That evening, we swam and went to bed. But
Andrew and Ira slept in a tent near the spot where we parted, and the next
day when passions subsided, they left their tent because it has leaked, and
they took us to the next room. A trip to Temryuk, and ordered the tank
circuit, and the day after they brought them from Krasnodar, and changed. 3
s swam, sunbathed, went to the "banana",
lowered the money in
slot machines, and July 8 gathered on the Black
Sea. Anton and Tania left a day earlier in a. Levokumskij, Budennovsky
district, to Tanya's mother. We first took a trip to the Point Chushka, where
on one hand - the Sea of Azov, on the other - Black. They turned around,
despite the fact that all the bikers encountered was called in Sevastopol, on
the bike show in the Night Wolves. Were supported by in Anapa, we stopped at
the central beach in Gelendzhik, and in the night arrived in the Bay Inal,
where he pitched a tent. But Andrew and Ira did not find cheaper housing 750
rub. a day for two, decided that it was a luxury, and slept in a sleeping bag
near a motorcycle, because
tent they its cast, and left at 5 am, in English,
the Kursk, Irina to her mother.
3 days, we relaxed on the Black Sea, went on the
jetski, and for the first time scuba diving at a depth of 7.5 meters,
accompanied by an instructor. The first minute of immersion is the most
terrible anxiety you covered, whether you breathe, but not used to feel
uncomfortable, whether you're suffocating. 38 minutes we walked around the
seamounts, and even caught a crab. The same day, packed up and drove along
the coast farther south. Bathed in Tuapse, breaking the 115 km mountain
serpentine, with 180 degrees in the evening arrived in Sochi, where he
discovered that we left the bolt on the front brake caliper. Unfortunately,
finding him on the road,
dusk, did not work, then decided to search for
local bikers. Sergei described the situation, standing in the bushes
policeman. He, in turn, suddenly noticed that a bolt at this time of day do
not find it. And after this valuable statements
suggested that motorcyclists gather at the cafe
"Banker", next to the "McDonalds". This place we found
quickly, but the bikers encountered did not show enthusiasm in search of us
required a screw until it learned from the way we keep, and where. Here was a
man with the same MOTOBIKE SALON, and promised in the morning at work to find
anything like that. And at night we were determined to second floor garage,
which was equipped with a gymnasium, with a double bed, inflatable, music, and
even the kitchen sink. How great is that we should not loose tent, sleeping
bags, foam, and most importantly - and then gather it all back.
The next day we picked up a bolt and a small
mototusovkoy we went to the beach. Local
bikers seem to have been forgotten that they have
access to such
opportunity. Ibid Sergei changed quickly eaten by
winding serpentine, pads, kit beushnye which lay in the coffer. Shreds - the
owner of the garage gave us a little tour of the city. We climbed the tower
Ahun (30.5 m), from there, with a viewing platform, all of Sochi - at a
glance: a magnificent panorama coastline and snow-capped peaks of the main
Caucasus ridge. And then we went to the Adler, and drove to the border with
Abkhazia, there were developed and, as a bypass road at Maikop not yet built,
had to return to Tuapse, and not far from the office, on the eponymous river,
we pitched a tent. And in the morning, after water treatment, went to Adygea.
The road was winding, but the coverage is quite decent. Suddenly, under
Shaumian, someone stole the asphalt, instead of him - the gravel and dust. We
had eight miles off road on Shahumyan pass, but on our map of it - not a
word. However, our all-terrain vehicle safely overcome four miles up
and another 4 km down, drowning
motor, we have sunk as a bicycle. It turned out
there do not lay asphalt on purpose, otherwise the winter just will not pass.
And then, like clockwork, slipped Apsheronsk, Maikop, Armavir, crossing the
border and Adygeya, Stavropol Territory, were clearly, as the fat in the
premise. We stopped to drink kvass - a liter every 47 ... in the shade, -
stated the fact Kvasnikov, and suggested a swim in the river Kuban, 19 km
from here. How, then, was happiness indeed to plunge into the cold water but,
by the way, and very fast, is a short time to relax, as will carry over.
While dressing after a bath, heated up again - just a headwind
m not cool, but it seems on the contrary, burn.
Nevinnomyssk Budennovsk, and in the evening we were with. Levokumskij where
we were met with Tanya Anton who went here after Golubitskaya.
4 days, we ate apricots and plum, and hid from the
heat in prefabricated skeleton-swimming pool, a trip to the infamous
Budennovsk hospital, captured in 1995, Basayev's terrorists, the victims
visited the mall bombing. A June 16, Anton and Tanya went home to Peter. We,
however, lured them with tales of the mountains, went to Dombai through
KavMinVody. In Pyatigorsk, went into the flower garden and looked at the
failure, in Zheleznovodsk walked on therapeutic park in Essentuki - Bottom
Vorontsov. Kislovodsk admired the magnificent colonnade, which is the main
gate of the Resort Park, and, of course, we could not pass by, located on the
shore of a mountain river, deep in the very beautiful
Alikonovskogo Valley, "Castle of Intrigue and
Love", which received such a romantic name from the legend of one
unfortunate lovers. But for us the greatest deceit lay in the fact that
inside the castle restaurant and hotel, in general, private area.
Of course, in every city tried mineral some water,
but most of all we liked Narzan and Essentuki-17. It was night, 20 miles
after crossing the Stavropol Territory and Karachay-Cherkessia republic, now
all hints of civilization, besides the road. We climbed higher and higher
into the mountains, the temperature dropped noticeably, and suddenly - a
fork, of course, without pointers. While Sergei
studied the map, but I insulate behind the stopped
car. Instantly swept all the warnings about the dangers in these parts,
however, came out of the car kindly white-haired little man, and offered to
take us to the hotel in
Karachayevsk. But it turned out, it works up to
21.00, and settle us there is no way. The second variant is more expensive
hotels, too, disappeared. We put up a tent strongly dissuaded Kazbek - that
was the name of our guide. He had no choice but to graciously invited us to
her. His daughter, Mary, and Einar, a bed to us in a separate room bed, and
fed dinner. The next morning, saying goodbye with Kazbek and his cross
mey, we went to Dombai. By the way, the way we have
gathered for breakfast, and on the way back again called for a visit.
By the way, we enjoyed the pristine nature and chi
simplest air. Fascinating mountain views, covered
with fir trees, slopes covered by snow capped peaks, turbulent rivers cold
... All of this suddenly gave rise to our sense of endless joy and fullness
of life. In Dombae for 1,000 rubles. for two, we picked up on a cable car and
then a chairlift to the mountain of Musa Achitara. Hence, we decided to climb
to the top of the mountain to try to find the
distance the top of Mount Elbrus. Unfortunately, due to cloud cover, it could
not make out. Mountain - a fairy tale, yet I was not anywhere as good as in
the mountains. An incomparable sense of freedom, even dizzy from such a close
proximity of the sky and the abyss! There, the top
y all the fuss recedes into the background. We got
so carried away that has descended on the last cable car, because no one we
were not informed about the operation, and we did not expect to spend on top
throughout the day. Leaving Dombai, we have clearly decided that it must come
back here. On the way to the city of thugs (this is the meaning of the name
Cherkessk), we, thank God, they are not met, but several times there were
traffic jams formed due to migration of cows.
In their native land Caucasian I play and sing
Guests are called "fairy tale" all my
If you like it - take it, do not hesitate to
If you have a question - ask, I answer it.
Why are you standing in Cherkessk? - Because I -
Why is your knife sharp? - Simply, I - thug!
Why are you heart in the sky? - Because in the
heart of the devil!
Why do you look proud? - Because I Circassian!
Over the Caucasus mountains glow under Elbrus
And in the valleys of ice-breath, and transparency
of the river ...
I will go there with this song in a real, highland
No song more interesting, if a song is a Circassian
We spent the night in a tent in the Stavropol
region on the River Great Zelenchuk. After we stopped in Stavropol, - and
again the unbearable heat forced us to dip into the first puddle. And,
finally, we reached the Republic of Kalmykia.
We stopped at the first Buddhist temple to watch.
But, indeed, an impressive temple in Elista was expecting us - the capital of
the republic Kalmykian. "Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni" - the
largest Buddhist temple in Russia and Europe, its height is 62 meters. At the
entrance was removed shoes, I wrapped
ACL with a handkerchief, as
was in shorts - poglazeli, every thought about her
and, without turning to the 11-meter Buddha back, moved back to the exit.
Went around the temple, have twisted prayer drums, and again in a way.
Around the bare steppe, affecting its endless,
every now and then, slowly, roll over "tumbleweed" - spherical
balls, dried by the sun, steppe plants. ... STOP grazing camels, camels? ..
Come see! And they, in their turn, looked at us in amazement, wondering, why,
suddenly, so much attention to their personas. They also do not know, what to
see this in our area
impossible. Camels did not take their eyes at us
while we filmed them on video, taking pictures, and even tried to stroke,
probably hoping the flight path of the attacker's spittle. But to realize our
and decided not to. When it got dark, we decided to
put a tent right in the wilderness, away from the road just drove off. From
early in the morning bleated lambs, and until they surrounded us, we quickly
got together and moved on. We are all waiting for us to meet the sands, but
saw only a few salt marshes.
In the morning they gave us a
tour: Ryazan Kremlin, Airborne School, and persuaded us to go on Friday with
the club for 9 years of Wolves MC, in Gus-Crystal. By 22 th day of our trip,
to be honest, podnakopiv fatigue. The house is close, but oh well, once
named, declined again on the route. In the meantime, we went to the Moscow
region Luhovitsy where blagod
arya Byake, greeted us with
smoke. First swim and sunbathe at the Blue Lakes, with the smoke and his
companion, and then went to their hometown - Kolomna. I smoke in the country
fried sausages, and spent the night there. The next day, after dinner, went for
a walk in Kolomna. The Kremlin's impressive, despite the fact that only 7
survived the towers of 17, a charming town, clean quiet streets. And after
all drove together to Ryazan, where Orthodox MC column started in the Goose.
The evening was organized by
the solemn, but a private part of the event with a feast, which was the
highlight of the soup kabanyatiny, congratulations, gifts, and of course,
fire-show from the smoke. I especially want to note the place of action,
which was held in the clubhouse Wolves MC, which, in turn, is located on the
hunting base with a lake, a bar, decorated in hunter's style with a trophy, a
hotel and even a zoo, where the fox lives in cages, wild boar, bear and wolf.
So everything is impregnated
with biker culture, that even we, who had seen a lot, walked through the
possessions of Wolves open mouths as children, marveling at every interesting
curiosities. So Borisych - the president enormous respect and congratulations
to our club. The next day, despite the heavy rain still swept through the
city column, and then - contests, music, striptease, fireworks.
In the morning it was decided
to drop by the same white stone in Vladimir - the Golden Gate, Uspensky
Cathedral, Cathedral Square, etc. Pictures flashed before my eyes ... Home,
how do want to go home already! But Prosper
Islands, in the village of
funnels that just outside Moscow, to Sergey's aunt. And in the morning again
kultprogramma, since the village is right in front of the Museum-Estate
Arkhangelsk, the sins of his visit did not, well, by the way - to the Museum
of Vadim Zadorozhnogo technology, and yet another Nochka remained.
July 28, at last, the finish
line, went to the village Aparkino, Tver Region, home to the
great-grandmother. And now, too, 2 weeks vacation from the vacation and
bustle, in a remote village. A week later, Sergei zanostalgiroval the past,
pulled him to the romance, and he bought a three-wheeled stroller with a
monster called "Dnepr". Chased it for milk but for the mushrooms
and leave to the end, this trouble is fingered dinosaur. August 14, safely
returned to St. Petersburg, bringing in left dopfaru top box - well, kept to
In summary, we counted two
edges, 3 and 13 regions of the republic, which was visited. But as you look,
in relation to the globe - a drop in the ocean. In the Karachay-Cherkessia
Republic of asphalt so beautiful, that it even like walking cow. An ideal asphalt
in Kalmykia, it seems, created specifically for the sheep to camels - these
are just spit like, when you go to Leningrad. The next time, of course, if we
do not have infinite time to communicate with people curious to feel the
local flavor, will have to write a sign in large letters: "This is not
a" Harley "is expensive, fast rides, eats differently and the
driver is not talking. "
On the road revealed a flaw in
our poltorashki - the vibration is "unwound", have lost five bolt.
The total mileage was 8780 km
Budget Trip 42 000 rub., Of
which 4300 rub. - On penalties.
554 liters of gasoline burned
in the amount of 11,659 rubles.
Average consumption of 6.27
liters per 100 kilometers.
Travel time - 28 days + 2 weeks
in the village.
Thank you for reading my opus
to the end, I hope he will do for you!